Bruges and the Navy

When I was reading a book on the military history of Bruges, I stumbled upon a fun fact. And since I served on board of naval ships, I found it interesting to figure out how close the city is connected to the start of the Belgian Navy !

In 1918, with the chaotic ending of the First World War, the Germans left some warships behind in their retreat. Twelve torpedo boats, some towing boats and fifteen fast motorboats for use against submarines. 
And there you have it, Belgium got –unwillingly- a fleet.

First, the fleet was transferred to Antwerp, but with a lack of the needed infrastructure there the fleet moved to the coast in 1920.

With owning ships, men needed to be trained to work on board. Captain Weverbergh, a Frenchman of Belgian origin, managed to get the French cruiser d’Entrecasteaux in loan. The ship came to … Bruges! A dock was used for the ship. It was the same dock used by the Germans in 1914-18 as a hiding place for their U-boats.

The training ship "d'Entrecasteaux"

The cruiser was build in 1894, a capacity of 8000 ton and heavy armoured hull. The crew held 22 officers and 480 NCO’s and sailors. The ship arrived in Bruges on May 27^th 1923.

In that year a new unit was formed, the KTZ (Korps Torpedoboten en Zeelieden – Corps Torpedoboats and Sailors), which trained sailors, maintained the fleet and was the “police on the waters”.

Unfortunately, due to the lousy pay and the lacking of a decent status people soon quit the first chance they had. 
So, on March 31^st 1927 (only a few years later) this was the end of the first Navy of Belgium.  The ship d’Entrecasteaux was towed to France, it served as training-ship for a while in Poland but in 1939 it was destroyed in a fire.

It was until 1949 the Navy again was formed in Ostend. And on September 10^th 1952 the base in Sint-Kruis (Bruges) was opened as a training-base.

So, in history the very first Navy-unit was situated in Bruges. Not many people know this, but now you do !

“Brugse Zot”, in English “Fool of Bruges”

If you learn about Belgium, maybe you’ll have read about the nicknames the habitants of the cities get. And, strangely enough each and every one is proud of that name!

A few examples (before we go to Bruges) are Ghent, where the nickname is “stroppendrager”, that’s a “noose-bearer”. In the 1500’s the people of Ghent were discontent under the ruling of Charles V. He wanted to expand the territories but that was at the expense of the taxpayer. So a revolution was called and Charles came all the way from Madrid to crush the rebels in Ghent. He succeeded in 1540 to ‘liberate’ the city. As proof of defeat he had the nobility of Ghent walk the streets of the city, bear feet and with a noose around the neck. The name “noose-bearer” was born. Still today it is a symbol against the tyranny.

Noose-bearers during the "Gentse Feesten"

Inhabitants of Mechelen (a city between Antwerp and Brussels) for example have the nickname of “maneblussers” or “moon-extinguishers”. History says that in the night of January 27^th -28^th 1687 there was a full moon with little clouds. A man who came from a bar, stumbled direction home and when he looked up to the tower thought it was on fire. In no time he had people wake up, sounding the alarm for fire. People who looked at the tower had the same impression, the tower was on fire! Everyone was gathering at the square in front of the burning tower… and then the clouds opened up and the moon came through. It was at that moment the people, ready to fight the ‘fire’, realized it was a reddish moonshine that gave the impression of a burning tower. The nickname “moon-extinguishers” was a fact!

The tower of Mechelen "on fire"

Now the name of Bruges, this story began in 1488. Maximilian of Austria was not loved by the people of the city. The people wanted more independency in rule for the city, and they held Max more than 4 months captive in a house (house Craenenburg on the Market square). When Maximilian was free he forbade any more fairs, markets or other activities in Bruges. Financially that was not interesting for the people of Bruges as you can imagine. At a certain moment the people found a perfect time for a big party, with the intention of satisfying Max and getting him in a good mood.
The festivities went on for some time, Maximilian saw everybody happy, partying, going crazy. The mayor saw that Max had a smile on his face and knew this was the moment to ask if it wasn’t possible to allow fairs and markets again. And maybe (Max had to be in a good mood, with the beer flowing abundantly) if there was a chance for the construction of a new ‘madhouse’. The legend says that Maximilian answered: “You don’t need a new madhouse, just close the gates of the city”.
The name “fools of Bruges” was born.
Just so you’d know: “mad” or “crazy” wasn’t a referral to being nuts of insane. It’s referring to the quirky character of the people of Bruges, with their love of humor and partying.

And, just so you'd know: from every nickname you can find a beer !
Brugse Zot is a very nice beer to try !

The first military unit in Bruges

I was reading on the military history of Bruges and found out which was the very first military unit ever founded and based in Bruges. And it was kind of a surprise! This is a story the British are going to love, and maybe some of you will say “no, really?”

The year is 1651 and King Charles the first is kindly requested to step down. Well, kindly… He’s executed! Funny little detail: for his execution he asked to have two shirts to wear. That way he wouldn’t shiver too much and give the impression he was afraid of the executioner.

Now England was a republic, with Protector Oliver Cromwell leading the country. The son of Charles the first, Charles the second (real easy sometimes) could get away from the executioners by escaping on time to the mainland. He stayed a while in Paris, spend some time in Cologne and finally chose the quiet (but still prestigious) Bruges. He arrived here on April 23^rd 1656. With his brothers, Henry Duke of Gloucester and James Duke of York he moved in a house complex in the Hoogstraat (High street).

Charles’ stay was noticed, not difficult with 175 people personnel. And he had the nickname of “the Merry Monarch”, living up to it. He was an active member of the Bruges archers’ societies of St. Sebastian (longbow), St George (crossbow) and St Barbara (arquebusses).
He was member of the Longbow society of St. Sebastian, but did you know the British Queen, Her Royal Highness Elizabeth II is a member of this society today? Prince Charles became member in 1974. So Bruges has really close connections with the British Islands!

But, it was in Bruges Charles took the first steps in preparation on returning to England to claim his throne. Already a few weeks after arriving in Bruges the recruitment of a new army started. He found volunteers among the English refugees, but also with the people of the city.

It is those Flemish soldiers who went with Charles, stayed in England and had influence on the language. A “tattoo”, not the painting of skin, but the military evening parade is an example. I think almost everyone knows the famous ‘Tattoo of Edinburgh’. The word “tattoo” comes from the Flemish “Tap toe”, of “closing the barrel”, maybe you know it as “Last Call”? Not a popular signal when in celebration with you friends in arms. Because it wasn’t so popular, they gave the signal in the form of a musical event with a band or a parade.

But the unit, I promised you that!

Charles II created the unit “The Royal Regiment of Guards”. When you see the first uniforms, you won’t know what I’m talking about here. The name changed somewhere in time to “The First Regiment of Foot Guards”. But, much later, after the battle at Waterloo, when the unit was victorious over the French Grenadiers of Napoleon (Garde Impériale) there was one last change in name to “The First or Grenadier Regiment of Foot Guards”. Still doesn’t ring a bell? 

It’s at that moment the uniform changes to what we know today: the bearskins are the most known item on their uniform, the scarlet vest is also pretty known.

It’s this unit that marches into Brussels in 1944 after liberating it from the German troops.

So that is the most famous unit of Great Brittan, founded right here in Bruges. When you’re visiting London and you’re taking a picture next to one of those men, think about it.

Bruges in the dark

It has been a while since I wrote something. For that my deepest apologies, but it’s been a hectic couple of months.
But, back in business and ready for a new item!

And why not talk about the beauty of the city of Bruges… in the dark?

Yes, when you like taking pictures the city is really lovely to walk through when it’s dark. There are wondrous views to be seen. The city breathes a middle-ages look, and with the proper illumination the results can be incredible.

Of course, in the summer period you have to wait a little longer, but believe me: it’s worth the wait. Take your camera and wonder around. Go off the beaten track most tourists follow, if you see a canal and there is a little road running next to it, follow that road. Find the hidden spots of the city. And with Bruges being a safe city you don’t need to worry about getting robbed or anything.

Of course, you have to go to the more tourist-areas as well. The big buildings have accentuating lighting so they sometimes come out a little spooky.

I know, this first item after a while is a short one, but with some really cool pictures added.

And if you’d permit me, I’m starting my own walking tours, no free walking tour but a paid version for the people looking for some more history, fun facts, so. Yes, a business of my own. For the moment there’s only the Facebook page, but more will follow. Just check it out here.

The judgement of Cambyses

When Collin and Brendan (yep, I’m on a first name basis!) are visiting the museum, Collin is looking at some really gross paintings.

Yeah, those Flemish Primitives had some real funky imagination! But, their paintings are mostly based on stories from the Bible or with a certain message in it. Occasionally they painted a family portrait like this one of Jan van Eyck (Arnolfini and his bride).

Jan van Eyck - Arnolfini and his bride

But, in the movie you can briefly see a few details of the painting “The judgement of Cambyses”, made by Gerard David, another Flemish Primitive.
If you visit the Groeningemuseum in Bruges, you can’t miss this work! It’s really a big diptych (2 pieces) of 202 x 349.5 cm (80 x 137.6 inch) and you see it when you enter the first hall dedicated to the Flemish Primitives.
It tells the old Persian story of Sisamnes, a judge who accepted a bribe and delivered an unjust verdict. When King Cambyses heard about this, he had the judge arrested and skinned alive as punishment.

The painting "Judgement of Cambyses"

On the left panel you can see the moment of arresting the judge, but take a look at the top left corner of the panel, you see the judge accepting money! So the painting is to be read as a comic book!
The right panel shows how Sisamnes is being skinned alive (yep, they were really cruel in those days) as punishment. And again, take a look at the top right corner of that panel. There you see a young man sitting on a type of thrown. That’s Otanes, Sisamnes’ son, sitting in the chair of his father but which is draped with the skin of his father. To remind him what happens when you are corrupt…

The work was commissioned in 1487/1488 by the authorities of Bruges. This is what is called a “righteousness scene”. Such scenes were often painted by Flemish Primitives. And those paintings were put on display in courthouses. To remind the aldermen and judges they are not untouchable!

But I can understand why the character of Collin was attracted to this work.

Waffles - What's up with that ?

When you’re wandering through Bruges (or Belgium in general) you can’t miss the waffle-stands. The aroma gets in your nose, even when you’re still a fair distance away from the stand. But it smells so good!
Some fun facts before setting your teeth in our national food maybe? Ok, here we go.
There is proof that the waffle was first seen somewhere in the 9^th century. Not as the waffle we know today, but as a communion wafer. The wafers were round and considerably larger than the ones used for communion. Most of them had pictures of Jesus on it. There are of waffle-irons found proving this fact. It was not until the 12^th century it was given a name: “oublie”.


An anonymous manuscript (Le Ménagier de Paris) of the late 14^th century held the very first recipe for waffles. It was a dude who wrote everything down so his wife would get it right. But, it was funny to know they used a cloth drenched in oil to make sure the waffle wouldn’t stick to the iron!
He wrote “Beat some eggs in a bowl, season with salt and add wine. Toss in some flour, and mix. Then fill, little by little, two irons at a time with as much of the paste as a slice of cheese is large. Then close the iron and cook both sides. If the dough does not detach easily from the iron, coat it first with a piece of cloth that has been soaked in oil or grease”.

Brussels Waffle

But, talking about “Toss in some flour…”, you can get really funky waffles if you don’t use the correct measures. It wasn’t until the 16^th century sugar was sometimes used.
It took up until 1958 at Expo 58 in Brussels before Maurice Vermersch introduced the Belgian waffles we know today. When he wanted to go to the US with the recipe another salesman beat him to it.

There are also different kinds of waffles.
The waffles in 1958 were Brussels waffles. These are lighter, crisper and have larger pocket compared to other waffles. They’re rectangular shaped and dusted with confectioner’s sugar.
With Brussels waffles you can ask for whipped cream, soft fruit or chocolate topping. Mostly sold in tearooms.

The Liège waffle is richer, denser, sweeter and chewier. The dough used is thicker, sometimes chuncks of pearl sugar are added, so it’s really a sweet, hearty waffle! It’s these you’ll find with street vendors.

Liège Waffle

One last word on the toppings you can add. You can go nuts in this topic! Chocolate sauce (or spread), whipped cream, ice cream, fruits (strawberries is really worth trying), jam or… my personal favorite: Speculoos spread !

Speculoos is a thin, crunchy cookie. Spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, cardamom and white pepper are used to give this cookie a really good and special flavor. It really can’t be compared to anything else, but if you really want to, gingerbread comes the closest.

And we made a spread of this!
Having a waffle with this spread on it: heaven ! But be aware, you’ll stand out as a tourist. If a Flemish (or Belgian) eats a Liège Waffle out in public, they do not put any topping on it, or a Belgian flag! But, of course, you can indulge yourself any way you like.

Trappists ?

Here’s another thing on beer, and this time it’s about the heavier stuff: Trappists.

The first mistake most people make is to say that Trappist is a kind of beer. No, it’s a reference to the origin of the beer! These beers are brewed by monks, specifically by monks of the Cistercian Order. The name “Trappist” is a derivative of the abbey “Notre-Dame de la Grande Trappe” (or in English “La Trappe Abbey”), one of the founding abbeys of the order of the Trappists.
Worldwide you can find ten Trappist-beers. Six of them are located in Belgium (oh yeah!), two in the Netherlands, one in Austria and one in the US.

Now what does it take to name something a Trappist?

1. The beer must be brewed within the walls of a Trappist monastery, either by the monks themselves or under their supervision.
2. The brewery must be of secondary importance within the monastery and it should witness to the business practices proper to a monastic way of life
3. The brewery is not intended to be a profit-making venture. The income covers the living expenses of the monks and the maintenance of the buildings and grounds. Whatever remains is donated to charity for social work and to help persons in need.
4. Trappist breweries are constantly monitored to assure the irreproachable quality of their beers.

Another mistake that is sometimes made is to say an abbey-beer is a Trappist. No, a Trappist is an abbey-beer, but not every abbey-beer is a Trappist. An example? Ok, the beer Collin Farrel drinks when he sees the movieset in the film “In Bruges” is Leffe. The beer is produced in the vicinity of the abbey, but by or under supervision of the monks.

Now, the Trappist are:

·         “Achel” from the St Benedict abbey (Belgium)

·         “Chimay” from Notre-Dame de Scourmont abbey (Belgium)

·         “Orval” from Orval abbey (Belgium)

·         “Rochefort” from Notre-Dame de St Remy abbey (Belgium)

·         “Westmalle” from Our-Lady of the Holy Heart abbey (Belgium)

·         “Westvleteren” from St Sixtus abbey (Belgium)

·         “La Trappe“ from the abbey Koningshoeven (Netherlands)

·         “Zundert” from Mary Refuge abbey (Netherlands)

·         “Spencer” from St Joseph’s abbey in Spencer (Massachusetts – US)

·         “Engelszell” from Stift Engelszell (Austria)

One last thing before you start. There are different types, “Enkel” or single, “Dubbel” or double and “Trippel” or triple.
Doubles are brown of color, fairly strong (6%-8%), have an understated bitterness, a fairly heavy body and a pronounced fruitiness and cereal character.
Triple range from 8% to 10%, blond color.
The single is the basic recipe of the beer. No Trappist brewery uses this term. Instead “Blond(e)” is more used to describe this type.
One fun story I’ll tell you here. Westvleteren is not available in stores. You need to get it at the monastery itself. But, to get it is kind of difficult. You need to make a reservation by phone, then you get a date to go over there. (Only problem, there’s only one telephone line, so getting the monastery on the phone can be time-consuming.) You show up at the appointment on the given date, your license is registered and you get 1 or 2 crates. Then you have to wait one year before you can use the license again!
In October 2010 renovations were needed and the expenses were higher than first thought, so the monks produced 93.000 extra crates. One year later (October 2011) the public was told these extra crates were going to be available in stores. It took exactly one day to sell all 93.000 crates !